So here is the clutch swap writeup that I'm planning to do. So far the car is up on the jack stands at least! I hope it's up high enough.
Clutch install. I've added a few things to a how-to that I got on www.mustangevolution.com
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove shifter lever (or complete shifter)
3. Jack up vehicle and place on four jack stands (as high as possible)
4. Disconnect all four 02 sensors
5. Spray h-pipe bolts with WD40 or whatever, let set for 20 min,
6. Remove h-pipe
7. Remove starter (3 bolts) ½” socket. Use an extension with a swivel like the one shown below to get the starter bolts out from in front of the A-arm
8. Drain tranny fluid and re-install drain plug when the tranny has been completely drained
9. Remove the drive shaft (use a 12mm 12 point socket to remove the four DS bolts and apply orientation marks so that the DS is re-installed exatly from the same area it was removed.
10. Remove all the electrical wiring from the tranny, (vehicle speed sensor, clutch cable ect...ect..)
11. Remove the two tranny cross member side bolts and let the transmission sit at an angle, this will make it very easy to access the two top tranny bolts. Remove the two top tranny bolts. (long extension and swivel needed) I put tape around the swivel to restrict it's motion to make it easier to get the socket on the screw.
12. Re-install the tranny cross member to its normal location and slide the two cross member bolts on..(do not thread the stationary nuts back on.
13. Remove the rest of the tranny BH bolts then jack the front of the engine up again so that the transmission can slide off without catching on the tranny tunnel.
14. Remove the two cross member side bolts and make sure your in a good position to wrestle the tranny off..let it rest on your chest and roll over.
15. Remove the PP, and FW…Clean the threads on the PP and FW bolts with a wire brush. I used a small screwdriver in one of the flywheel holes to keep it from turning while I removed the bolts.
Your clutch is NOT suppose to look like this:
16. Remove pilot bearing (slide hammer and pulley kit needed)
17 . Re-install new pilot bearing and add bearing grease to the new pilot bearing
18. Install the freshly turned FW, add red loctite to the FW bolts and snug in a criss-cross pattern, then do a finishing torque of 65 ft-lb.
19. Clean the flywheel surface with Acetone
20. Clean the PP rotor surface with Acetone and place the clutch disk in the proper orientation to the PP rotor..
21. Install the clutch alignment tool then place the PP and clutch disk to the FW, and add red loctite to the PP bolts and install the bolts until the PP and clutch disk has seated to the FW.
22. Loosen the PP bolts ½ turn then torque the PP bolts down first to 15ftlb, then do a finishing torque of 28 ft-lb.
23. Look to make sure the PP, and Clutch disk are concentric…If everything looks good re-install the tranny with a new clutch release fork ($30 from ford) and a new TB and make sure your generous in greasing the prongs on the clutch release fork and the TB bore.
24. Re-install the tranny. Make sure the wiring harness bracket on the top of the bell housing is out of the way. Put 2 of the transmission bolts on the driver side then use one of the longer bolts on the left side to pull the transmission in place. I used the vise grip shown below to hold the transmission in place while I pulled the long bolt and replaced it with the correct one.
I made a bracket to convert my floor jack into a transmission jack. It wasn't ideal but it did the trick. A couple of modifications to it and it should work well in the future. I'll post a picture of it later.
25. Re-install the Drive shaft (use red loctite on DS bolts and torque to 90 ft-lb).
26. Remove the fill plug on the tranny..you cant fill it from the shifter area and fill until tranny fluid seeps from the tranny filler hole.
27. Don't forget about that H/X pipe!